Common Pool Pump Problems And How To Fix It

The pump is one of the most vital components of your swimming pool’s circulation and filtration system, regardless of whether it is in ground or above ground. The basic job of a pool pump is to create pressure inside the pool, following which the water will be forced by way of the filter. This way, the water in your pool will get purified. A pool pump works well in getting rid of debris, dirt, and other foreign particles from a pool, makes the water clean and clear, and fills the pool with clean and fresh water again. In simple words, the pool pump is the heart of your pool and has to be cared for the right way.


Unfortunately sometimes, even if you have been maintaining it properly, the pool pump can stop functioning properly. This can cause accumulation of dirt and debris in your pool, making it stink, and also your pool will get a weird texture. While you can hire a professional to look into and rectify the issue, many pool pump problems are often easy to fix, so you can first try your hand in rectifying the issue before contacting a pool repair and maintenance service provider.

Pool Pump Parts
Before we actually start discussing about the different pool pump issues, it is essential that you are aware of the basic parts of the pump and have a clear understanding of their functions. This will be of great help if this is your first time trying to troubleshoot a pool pump.
Pool filter: This component removes all forms of smaller dirt and debris from water as it passes through the filter before it flows back to the pool.
Strainer basket: Helps by catching large debris and leaves in order to prevent them from clogging the pool pump. Before water reaches the pump it flows through this basket.
Electric motor: Contains an impeller that spins continuously to move water from the drains of the pool by way of the filter and again back to the pool.

Now, read on to know about some of the most common pool pump problems and also the ways to fix the same.

The Pool Pump Makes a Noise
Nobody likes a noisy pool pump, especially your neighbors. However, it is natural for the pump to make a noise at some point or the other. Mostly, the noise will be the result of a vibrating pump. In that case, check to see if there are any loose screws in the base of the pump. If you find any, tighten them immediately. Sometimes you may find a gap between the base and the pump itself; in that case, use a rubber mat or pad to fill the gap and stop the vibration.


One other cause for a noisy pump can be cavitation. It happens when there is no sufficient supply of water to the pump within a particular timeframe, or simply put, cavitation happens when the pool pump starves for water. The impeller will start to spin fast but with insufficient water, thus producing a loud noise. This type of noise usually stops on its own after some time.


The Pool Pump Doesn’t Pull Water
If your pump doesn’t pull water, the first thing you need to check is to see if anything is stuck in the pump and skimmer basket. It is common for mud and other dirt to get deposited in these areas of the pool pump over time. When too much mud or dirt gets accumulated, the flow of water will get affected and as a result the pool pump will stop pulling water. In this case, clean the baskets to get rid of all the mud. The next thing you should check to rectify this pool pump issue is the pump impeller. Basically the impeller will be connected to the motor that is responsible for the flow of water. Impellers usually get jammed over time, especially during spring. Any dirt in between the impeller can cause it to jam. Therefore, open the pump and clear away all debris.


In addition to these causes, air leak in the line of suction can also cause this issue. It is in the suction line where water is supplied to the pump. You will be able to identify this cause when your pool pump stops working at high capacity. In this case, instead of sucking water the pump will start sucking air. So if you think that the problem with your pool pump is air leak, we’ll be discussing more about it later in the article.


The Pump Doesn’t Work
The most common reason for this issue happens to be a loose connection. Additionally, there are some other causes which include lack of electricity, voltage fluctuations, and a blown fuse. Before you proceed to check any of these issues, make sure you are completely dry and wear slippers made of rubber. Take a voltmeter with you, check all sources of power supply and try to identify the exact source of the issue. If all the power points, wiring, and power supplies are working just fine, then you may have to consider other possibilities.


The next thing you should look for is sounds from the pump motor. See if you hear a clicking or humming sound from the motor. If yes, then it can probably be caused by the capacitor. The capacitor basically works like a battery that initiates the spinning of the motor. It stores some electricity for this process. Try changing it to see if the problem gets rectified.


The Pool Pump Turns Off By Itself
Sometimes, it is possible for your pool pump to turn off by itself after a specific timeframe. This can be due to over-heating. Generally, pool pumps use a lot of electricity and often require constant supply of the same to function properly. However, if there is a power drop at some point, it can cause it to overheat. The chances of power drop are high during summer because you and your neighbors will have ACs turned on in your houses at all times. During such times, try running the pump at night as it will be much cooler.


Another reason for this issue happens to be a blockage in the vent or failure of the motor fan. The vents are present under the motor, which can get clogged easily due to leaves and dirt. To avoid this, always make sure that the area is clean and clear of any dirt or debris. If you happen to live in a region where the climate tends to be extremely hot, cover your pump with a pool pump cover to reduce its exposure to the sun, which may also cause it to overheat.



The Pump or Motor Sucks Air
It is essential for any pool pump to be air tight. However, in rare cases, you will be able to notice air bubbles in the pump basket. When the air leak grows, it can result in circulation issues. Some of the most common causes for air leaks in pool pumps include a plumbing break, leaving valves, or bad thread sealant. In some cases, old or loose pumps can also cause air leaks.


An easy way to identify air leak in your pool pump is by spreading shaving foam all over the pump and look for places where the foam is sucked. Once you identify the leak, inspect the level of damage. If the leak is small, you can use a waterproof adhesive to seal the area. However, if it appears bigger, you will have to replace the part.


These details should be sufficient to help you identify and fix common pool pump problems. However, if the problem persists or is bigger than you expected, seek help from a professional.

Maintenance And Cleaning Of Pool Filters

While most people know that a filter is a key component of a swimming pool's filtration system, quite a few do not realize that the filter needs to be cleaned periodically to insure proper equipment performance and cleanliness of the pool water. This article will discuss why maintenance cleaning is a good idea, then tell how to clean each of the 3 types of filters; cartridge (or cart), sand and finally both types of the Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filters.


When your filter was new the water could easily pass through it - the pounds of pressure per square inch (psi) shown on the filter's pressure gauge probably reads somewhere around 8 to 25 psi, depending on your pool and plumbing set up. As the filter does its job and filters, the debris in the water accumulates in the filter, the filter slowly gets clogged with debris and the pressure rises. When the pressure rises by 25% over your starting pressure it's time to clean out the debris that has been collected by the filter so you have room to catch any new debris that enters the pool. Failure to keep the pressure in the normal range can greatly reduce your water flow, resulting in cloudy water, poor circulation and excessive wear on the pool equipment.


How long you can go between backwashings/cleanings of the filter varies quite a bit from pool to pool, depending on the relative size of the filter and the pool. Some people need to clean their filters weekly, others can go an entire season without needing to clean the filter. It is always a good idea to clean the filter at least once a year, even if the pressure doesn't go up.


Cartridge

To clean a cartridge filter, the pump must be turned off. If the filter is below the water level of the pool, there should be valves that have to be closed to prevent the pool from draining when the filter is opened. Open the air bleed valve on the top of the filter and the drain port on the bottom of the filter and allow the water to drain out. Then open the body of the filter (this may involve unscrewing some knobs, removing a nut at the top, or removing a bracket) and remove the cart or carts. Make sure you note their position and orientation so you have no trouble reassembling the unit! Rinse out the filter tank and take the carts to where you want to clean them. All you need is a garden hose with a nozzle. A small fixed brass nozzle, sold by many hardware stores, works best. Wash the carts from the top to the bottom aiming ~ 45 degrees down at them. Please remember to wash both the outside portion and the inner portion - it's a good idea to start at an identifying point on the cart and wash all the way around, then repeat on the inside. Once finished, reassemble the filter, close the drain port, open any valves you might have closed, turn the pump back on, when water runs steadily out of the air bleed valve close it, and you're good to go until the pressure raises again. If the pressure after cleaning does not return to your standard starting pressure you will need to do a more through cleaning.


Sand

Sand filters will have either a push/pull main valve or a multiple position valve (multiport) for cleaning the debris trapped by the sand. Whenever changing the position on the main valve, you MUST have the pump off or you will break something. First make sure that any valve on the discharge/waste line is open and any discharge hose is attached and rolled out to where you want the dirty water to go. After turning off the pump, move the lever to the "BACKWASH" position and restart the pump. Most multis have a view glass so that you can see the debris coming out of the filter, other filters will have a section of transparent pipe on the backwash line. The water will run clear for a moment, then get dirty, and finally run clear again. When the water in the glass is ~ clear, turn off the pump. If you have a multiport valve with a "RINSE" setting, switch the multiport to "RINSE", otherwise switch to "FILTER", and run the pump for about 15 seconds. Repeat the backwash cycle. Finally, reposition the valve back to the normal "FILTER" position, and you're all set until the unit needs to be cleaned again. Please note that this process removes water from the pool, so be sure to keep an eye on the water level and don't start the cleaning process if the water is already low!

DE

DE filters come in 2 varieties, the first makes use of a push/pull or multiport valve for the cleaning. With this kind of DE filter, the cleaning procedure is exactly the same as cleaning a sand filter. The only difference is that much of the DE is removed along with the dirt, and therefore you have to add more after cleaning the filter (sand is not removed when backwashing, so doesn't need to be replaced). Because the backwashing doesn't remove all of the DE, only add ~80% of what the filter calls for when new or fully clean so that the filter doesn't clog with clean DE. Once in a while it is necessary to open up a DE filter and do a much more through cleaning.


The other kind of DE filter utilizes a handle on top of the filter to shift the internal assembly up and down, or "bump" it. This knocks the DE and dirt off of the filter and down to the bottom, reducing the filter pressure and is known as a "bump filter". To clean a bump DE filter, turn off the pump, open the air valve on the top for about 5 seconds and close it again. Now slowly push the handle down and quickly raise it up 5 times. Restart the pump and check to see that the psi dropped more than 2 psi. If it did, you're all set and you don't need to add any new DE to the filter. If it didn't drop enough, repeat the bumping procedure, remove the plug from the bottom of the filter and run the pump another 30 seconds. Replace the plug, open the air valve on top and run the pump until water is coming out of the air valve. Do this whole process twice and you'll be all set to add ~80% of what the filter calls for when new, just like the other type of DE filter. Once in a while it is necessary to open up the filter and do a much more through cleaning.


Whichever type filter you have, if you remember to keep an eye on the pressure gauge and perform the backwashings/cleanings as needed so that you never encounter poor filtration, cloudy water nor costly equipment repair/replacement. It only takes a few minutes a month to keep the filter working perfectly, prevent these issues, and allow you to enjoy a Trouble Free Pool!

 

Pool Chemical Safety

While pool chemicals are available to solve almost all water problems, they can be dangerous to humans and animals if handled improperly.

Chemicals can cause skin and eye damage and can be fatal if swallowed. To keep yourself and your pool safe, follow these pool chemical safety precautions:

Keep all pool products away from children and animals.

Wear rubber gloves and goggles, and wash clothes and hands immediately after handling chemicals. If your skin comes in contact with any chemicals, flush immediately with cold water for 15 minutes and call a physician.

Follow the dosage directions and safety precautions listed on the pool product label.

Store chemicals according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Never return spilled material to the original container or place in the household garbage.

Use clean, dry measuring equipment for chemicals. Rinse all measuring equipment after using.

Don't mix spa, pool or household chemicals together.

Add chemicals to water. Don't add water to chemicals. Adding water to chemicals contaminates the entire container.

Don't allow dry chlorine to become damp or wet.

Keep open flames away from pool chemicals.

Don't reuse empty containers. Check with local, state and federal regulations for proper disposal.

Discard any unused chemicals after closing your pool. Follow local ordinances for disposing of hazardous materials. Buy new chemicals when you reopen the pool.

Pool Shock: Granular Or Liquid

There are many different forms of chlorine you can use to shock your swimming pool in either Liquid or Granular form. After reading this blog you will understand the Pros and Cons of each type of swimming pool shock.


I had a customer a few years ago call up in a panic because they ran out of their granular Calcium Hypochlorite and it was a holiday weekend. All pool stores were closed and the customer started crying on the phone to me. They had a wedding at their house the next day and the pool was green. I told her to drive to a convenience store and buy all of the liquid bleach they have and pour it into the pool and then brush the walls to remove the dead algae. Six hours later the pool was clear and customer was very happy that the pool would be blue and clear for the wedding. Two days later she called me back thanking me for helping her during the most stressful time of her life – another customer for life!

Liquid Shock: Sodium Hypochlorite strength ranges from 5% store brands to a 12.5% commercial strength, used for many industrial purposes.

Pros: Fast dissolving, no residue, adds no calcium or cyanuric to pool.

Cons: Harder to buy, store and use. Very high pH level. Short shelf life.instant-liquid-chlorine-sm

Sodium Hypochlorite, also known as Bleach or Liquid Shock is used often at Hotel, Condo and Health Club pools, delivered by truck and stored in 50 gal vats. This commercial strength liquid chlorine is also used by laundry and dry cleaners, and is a strong concentration of 12.5 % Sodium Hypochlorite. By contrast, most store brand Bleach sold in 1 gal jugs is 5% or less – same stuff, just contains more water. If you buy liquid bleach for your pool, be sure to get unscented and unaltered, regular ol’ bleach.

When using liquid shock it dissolves very quickly and you don’t have to pre-dissolve in a bucket and then add water like you do with granular chlorine. Another advantage of using liquid chlorine is that you have no residue so you don’t have to brush or vacuum the leftover shock off the bottom of the pool. When using liquid shock be very careful when you are pouring into the pool because if you get any on your clothes it will bleach them white.

Some of the disadvantages of using liquid shock are that the commercial strength shock is difficult to find typically only pool distributors sell the liquid shock. Liquid bleach is a dangerous chemical so it is very important to make sure it is stored in a well ventilated, cool and dry area, in a container – to contain the bottles. Using Liquid shock or liquid bleach regularly will increase your pH so make sure you keep an eye on your pH and alkalinity levels.

Granular Shock: Granular or powdered oxidizers 4 types and 6 strengths.

The most common form of granular shock is called Calcium Hypochlorite, known as Cal Hypo. This type of shock is much stronger than liquid shock typically has 65 to 75 percent available chlorine. This is very easy to apply and simple to use. One of the reasons this type of granular shock is most commonly used is because it is very effective and also economical.

Another type of Granular shock is Sodium Dichloro-S–Triazinetrione which is known as Dichlor. This is a premium quality sanitizer that is perfect for both swimming pools and spas. A fast dissolving shock that will help eliminate bacteria and other contaminants from your pool or spa water without leaving much residue. This also does not affect your pH so there is no change in your water chemistry and keeps the water balanced. The Granular Dichlor has 56% of available chlorine. This type of pool shock does have to dissolved in a bucket of water.

Potassium Monopersulfate is a non-chlorine shock that is used for both pools and spas. The advantage of this type of pool shock is that is safer than a chlorine based shock. This is used to help prevent algae growth and help kill harmful organic contaminants in the pool such as bacteria. When using this non chlorine shock you can swim in just 15 minutes after shocking the pool. This type of non chlorine shock is sometimes abbreviated MPS, and works great with bromine and will not effect other swimming pool chemical levels. MPS will not raise your calcium hardness and also has a neutral pH.

Lithium Shock is another premium shock that will never bleach your pool liner. This type of pool shock dissolves immediately leaves no cloudy residue. This type of pool shock is great choice for a pool that has a heavy swimmer load or if you live in very hot climate. This product is probably one of the most expensive types of pool shock but dissolves quicker compared to Calcium Hypochlorite and in my opinion is a superior product for pool shocking.


What Is Shocking A Pool?

The term shocking means to add enough chlorine to pool or spa water to destroy all combined chlorine present in the water. This usually requires adding 10 times the amount of combined chlorine present in ( ppm). The common term for this is called breakpoint chlorination. The other reason for shocking the pool is to remove algae or bacteria, by oxidizing all contaminants in the pool. All of the shock treatments I mentioned above can be used for both purposes – for removing combined chlorine and for killing algae and bacteria.

No matter what type of pool shock you use it is very important that you follow the instructions on the label very carefully. Make sure the chemicals are stored in a cool dry place and always apply chemicals directly to pool / spa water not water to chemicals.

What’s Better – Liquid Chlorine or Granular Chlorine?

That’s your decision, but it will be decided on availability, cost and personal preference. I normally use granular shock, but when opening the pool, I like to use 5 gallons of Clorox bleach just before shocking the pool with dissolved Cal Hypo granular. When shocking clean and clear water however, I prefer to use either non-chlorine shock or Lithium shock, on my own backyard pool.




Please remember that all types of chlorine react strongly when mixed with other chlorine types or any contaminants. Never mix chlorine types, and keep them safely separated, clean, cool and dry at all times.

Ten Pool Care Tips

Keeping your pool sparkling clean doesn't have to be as cumbersome as you might think. All pools are different, and so are their maintenance needs. However, they all share one commonality: The secret to pristine pool health is regular, routine care. If you choose to handle common problems like murky water or broken pumps on your own, make sure to always consult manufacturers' manuals before fixing or using equipment. No matter if you rely on a service company to take care of your pool, you still need to do a few things on your own to ensure your pool stays in good condition for years.


1. Skim Debris and Clean out Baskets

Skimming the pool's surface by hand every few days is one of the fastest and easiest ways to keep your pool clean. Floating debris will eventually sink, becoming harder to remove. Use a long-handled net called a hand skimmer or leaf skimmer to remove leaves, bugs and other unwanted items. Skimming significantly increases the efficiency of the pool's circulation system and lowers the amount of chlorine you'll need to add to your pool. Cleaning out strainer baskets at least once a week also helps circulation and lowers chlorine demands. Locate strainer baskets attached to the side of above ground pools and in the pool deck of inground pools. Simply remove the plastic basket and shake it out; spraying the inside with a hose can help dislodge stubborn objects.


2. Vacuum the Pool and Brush Walls and Tile

A pool should be vacuumed every week to keep water clear and reduce the amount of chemicals you need to add to it. There are many types of pool vacuums. If you have a manual design, work it back and forth all over the surface of the pool like you would if vacuuming carpet. It's good form to slightly overlap each stroke. Check the filter each time you vacuum, and clean it if necessary.

But vacuuming isn't the only maintenance that should be done once a week. Brushing the walls and tile helps minimize algae buildup and calcium deposits so they don't fester and become larger problems. The material your pool walls are made of dictates what kind of cleaning tools you should use. Select a stiff brush for plaster-lined concrete pools and a softer brush for vinyl or fiberglass walls. For tiles, use a soft brush to prevent scratching or degradation of grout. A pumice stone, putty knife or a half-and-half mixture of water and muriatic acid can also work well.


3. Clean The Pool Filter

There are three kinds of pool filters: cartridge, sand and diatomaceous earth. While there are different maintenance procedures for each type, all require periodic cleaning depending on the type of filter and how often a pool is used. Cleaning the filter more often than recommended can actually hinder the filtration process. A clean filter is less efficient than one with a mild amount of dirt in it because the dirt helps trap other particles, which removes debris from the water. However, you don't want to let the filter get too dirty. A sign that it's time to clean is an increase in flow between the pressure gauge and flow meter. Clean the filter when the difference reaches 10 to 15 pounds (4.5 to 6.8 kilograms) per square inch.


4. Check And Maintain Water Level

A lot of water will be lost throughout the swimming season largely because of evaporation and normal wear and tear, such as swimming, splashing and exiting the pool. When you remove debris with your skimmer throughout the week, that's also a good time to check the water level. Ensure it doesn't fall below the level of the skimmer, otherwise the pump could be damaged. If the water is low, use a garden hose to bring it up to safe levels.

If you drain your pool to perform maintenance or once the swimming season has passed, be careful to not let the pool sit empty too long. As a general rule, it's best to leave water in a pool throughout the winter because the weight of the water counteracts with forces from the ground pressing up against the pool from below.


5. Maintain The pH Level

Pool water should be tested regularly to make sure it's clean and healthy. The pH scale is a measurement of acidity or alkalinity that runs from 0 to 14. A reading between 7.2 and 7.8 is ideal; this range is safe for swimmers and helps sanitizers work at top efficiency.

You can monitor your pool's pH level with a testing kit. There are many kinds of testing kits available; however, most homeowner versions are either reagent kits or test-strips. Reagent kits aren't too difficult to use. You take a sample of pool water, then add liquids or tablets to it. The water changes color, indicating its chemical balance. Test-strips work differently. When you submerge them in the pool for a few seconds, dyes they contain cause them to change color. Next, match up the strip to a color chart to determine the pool's pH level. Use this information to gauge what kind and how much of the chemicals your pool needs.


6. Superchlorinate Water

Organic contaminants like ammonia or nitrogen build up in a pool over time. Massive amounts of such contaminants can interact with a pool's chlorine to form chloramines, which give off that potent chlorine smell that many people associate with pools. To get rid of this harsh odor, it's necessary to superchlorinate -- or shock -- pool water back to normal chlorine levels. While it may seem counterintuitive, adding a large amount of chlorine to a pool can make the undesired odor go away. Some pools should be shocked once a week, while others can go a significantly longer time. Follow manufacturers' instructions before superchlorinating your pool to get the best results.


7. Find And Repair Leaks

Sometimes it's difficult to determine if low water levels are due to evaporation or a leak. You can discover leaks in your pool by conducting a simple bucket test. Fill a plastic bucket three-quarters full of water. On the inside of the bucket, mark the water line. Place the bucket in the pool, then mark the water line on the outside of the container. (If the bucket has a handle, remove it to allow for better stability while floating.) Let it float for two or three days. If the water inside and outside the bucket has gone down the same amount, your pool is losing water due to evaporation. However, if the pool water level has gone down more than the water inside the bucket, your pool has a leak. That's your cue to call a professional to have it patched.


8. Winterize Your Pool

Where you live determines whether or not you should winterize your pool. If your location experiences temperatures that drop below freezing, you'll need to take steps to ensure that your pool stays healthy. Residual pool water left in pipes can freeze and cause damage. To prevent this from happening, use an air compressor to blow water out of the pool's plumbing when swimming season is over. Also, drain as much water as possible from the filter and heater. Any remaining water can be eliminated using nontoxic antifreeze (caution: this is different from antifreeze for vehicles). Disconnect the heater, pump and chemical feeders, the latter of which should be cleaned and stored.

Finally, clean the pool: skim, brush walls, vacuum, empty skimmer baskets, close skimmer line valve, lower water level to approximately 18 inches (45 centimeters) below the coping and supercholorinate. Lastly, cover the pool to keep out debris.


9. Open Your Pool For Swimming Season

If a pool is properly winterized, it can easily be reopened come swimming season. Most importantly, don't remove the pool cover until you've cleaned the area around the pool. Sweep or hose away debris to prevent it from getting into the pool. Next, use a garden hose to fill the pool to its normal water level. Reconnect everything that was disconnected. Water will need to flow through the circulation system, so open the skimmer line valve. Test the water for its pH level, then shock the pool. It'll take a week or more before the pool gets balanced and becomes swimmable. Leave the pump running 24 hours a day, and reduce the run by only an hour or two each day until the water is balanced.


10. Professionally Service The Heater

Pool heaters typically require the least maintenance of all pool equipment. Gas heaters can work fine without being serviced for a couple years, and electric ones can last even longer. Consult your manufacturer's manual for specific care instructions. Sometimes, calcium scales build up inside the tubes of a heater and restrict flow, preventing the water from heating adequately. If this happens, recruit the help of a professional because the heater may need to be disassembled and have its tubes cleaned out with a wire brush or acid. Hiring someone to service your pool can cost $100 or more per month, depending on the maintenance your pool requires.

Maintaining Your Pool

Whether you maintain your pool yourself or use a pool professional maintaining proper pool chemistry can help you save time and money while enjoying your backyard paradise. Accurate pool maintenance can do more than just prolong your fun in the sun. It also can extend the life of your pool’s external parts and interior pool finish.

How To Raise PH In A Pool

One of the most important activities of pool care is ensuring the chemical balance in the water is well maintained. A well balanced chemistry is vital in keeping your pool clean and also ensuring it is safe for swimming. Chemicals such as chlorine are used in controlling the growth of bacteria and algae in the pool while chemicals such as muriatic acid keep the pH levels of your pool water well balanced.

To maintain your pH levels, you need test strips and a drop kit. It’s also crucial that you keep a consistent volume of water in your pool. A low than normal level of water can make the chemicals high while a higher than normal level can dilute the chemicals and make them less effective. In addition, incorrect water levels also have dangerous effects on circulation and filtration.

The perfect range for pH in the swimming pool water is usually 7.4 to 7.8. If the pH level is kept at that range, the chances of it irritating our eyes when swimming is low. If you have tested you pH and realized that it is low, then you will need to raise it. Your pool water has become acidic and can easily corrode metal surfaces, dissolve concrete and masonry surfaces and strip vinyl pools of their ability to stretch and decrease their lifespan.

Why should you raise pH in pool?

 As earlier stated, if your pool pH is low, then you are exposing your pool equipment to damage. Here are some other problems that low pH in pool water can result to:
• Metal surfaces in your pool such as ladders, railings, screws, pool cover components and light fixtures and any other metal surfaces in the pump and filter are at a risk of corrosion. Plaster gunite, concrete and fiberglass pools can all be affected in different ways such as pitting, etching and delaminating due to low pH. Pools that are vinyl line may become brittle and finally end up cracking and tearing. In addition, stone, coping, masonry surfaces and décor tiling in the pool can dissolve due to the acidity in the pool water as a result of low pH.
• Are you wondering where all the dissolved cement and metal corrosion goes? Well, it gets right into your pool water! Still, the water cannot hold so much contamination and at some point it will show it is totally contaminated. When the water gets completely contaminated, extra metals and dissolved minerals start forming on the walls of the pool as stains and discolorations.
• Low pH in pool water decreases your ability to control total alkalinity since low pH decreases the efficiency of chemicals that are used in balancing alkalinity.
• Swimmers will start complaining about irritation on the eyes and nasal passages due to the low pH levels of the pool water. Furthermore, they will experience dry, itchy and cracked skin as acidic water tends to strip the body of its natural oils.